The (blinding) lights of Baku

ita eng
18 January 2013

Capital of Azerbaijan and the centre of the country's extractive industry, Baku (especially downtown) is changing quickly, thanks to an influx of money that has come with the discovery and exploitation of new oil and gas fields in the Caspian Sea

The new face of the city centre, opulent and flamboyant on the outside but cold and artificial on the inside, becomes even more apparent at night when thousands of lights transform it into a kaleidoscope of light and colours. Yet such a radical, dazzling renewal is hiding quite a few shadows and has become a symbol not only of new wealth, measured in petrodollars, but also of the profound imbalances in Azerbaijani society. Photos and texts by Francesco Martino

Downtown
On one pedestrian street in the centre of Baku, street lighting is so intense that the night must retreat, disappearing into the recesses of the sky above the city.
The Baku Philharmonic
The play of light and water in front of the Baku Philharmonic.
Reflections of wealth
Based in Baku, the SOCAR (State Oil Company of Azerbaijan Republic), the state oil company controlled by President Ilham Aliev, is now worth over $ 20 billion. Most of the oil and gas fields are on the outskirts of Baku. The company's omnipresent logo is a symbol of the wealth and imbalances the extraction of hydrocarbons has created in the country (and its capital).
Mirza Alakbar Sabir
The statue of philosopher and poet Sabir Mirza Alakbar (1862-1911). In the background, the illuminated walls of the old city (İçəri Şəhər).
In a gondola, two steps from the Caspian sea
On Baku's renovated waterfront, there are new "exotic", unusual attractions like the "Venezia" complex: bars and restaurants surrounded by illuminated canals where futuristic electric gondolas sail.
Towers of fire
Towering over Baku's new skyline, the three "Flame Towers" (respectively 190, 160, and 140 meters) symbolise, more than any other construction, the city's radical transformation. Their shape is reminiscent of fire, a symbol strongly linked to the Azerbaijani capital. Thanks to a complex lighting system, they also turn into huge screens for a constantly moving play of light.
The "Heydar Aliyev" airport
The international terminal of Baku airport, one of many institutions that bear the name of Heydar Aliyev, the first President of independent Azerbaijan and father of current head of state, Ilham.
Near the Presidential Palace ...
One of the many floodlit buildings near the Presidential Palace of Azerbaijan. When I tried to photograph the Presidential Palace itself, a zealous guard resolutely implied it was not appropriate...
Derrick of light
A few steps from the Caspian Sea, in front of the National Carpet Museum, stands a derrick (word for the frame over an oil well) of light, symbol and celebration of the industry that floods the centre of Baku with light, even at night.
Khurshidbanu Natavan
Another monument in the centre city, dedicated to Khurshidbanu Natavan (1832 - 1897), daughter of the last ruler of the Karabakh Khanate and popular lyric poet.
In the old town
Even in the alleys and winding streets of the historic old town (İçəri Şəhər), the lights start to dominate the landscape at night.
Busy roads
At night, the traffic in the streets of Baku dramatically decreases. At peak hours, impatient local drivers, with impatience and a touch of insanity, face traffic jams.
The dream of the President
"The city that used to be black will become white, clean, full of flowers, and one of the most attractive views in Azerbaijan".Azerbaijani president Heydar Aliev.