Wine, passion and tradition in Eastern Herzegovina

ita eng
3 May 2012

In Eastern Herzegovina wine is the invisible and lasting tie with both the land and its generations. Today this heritage is preserved and promoted also thanks to the careful work of the Trebinje-Erzegovina Slow Food convivium. A picture story with photos by Ivo Danchev and texts by Francesco Martino 

Eastern Herzegovina, the region around Trebinje, is a complex territory, harshly marked by the conflict of the 1990s that led to the dissolution of Yugoslavia and Bosnia Herzegovina. Nonetheless its natural and culinary heritage is seen as an important resource for the future. The awareness about this potential has increased partly thanks to the involvement of the Slow Food Trebinje-Erzegovina convivium, that in recent years has been working hard at promoting and rediscovering the two most representatives vines of the area, žilavka and vranac. It has given much support to the small family-run wineries of the villages on the plains of Popovo and Petrovo Polje that are now starting to to achieve important results in terms of production, quality and preservation of traditions.

Ancient passion
In Herzegovina wine is an ancient passion. In the Eastern part of the region, surrounding the town of Trebinje, there are two leading vines: the žilavka, from which a smooth full-bodied white wine is produced and the vranac, a ruby-red wine with a hint of crimson, intense in taste and rich in evocative smells.
Between tradition and modernity
Keeping tradition alive, some big enterprises, but also small vineyards, such as that of Mladen Andjušić, in the village of Dračevo.
Cosiness
Wine is an integral part of the cultural identity of this region, providing opportunities for socialising and social cohesion, especially in small hamlets. An example is Jovo Runjevać' s mutvak in Zgonjevo.
Successful business
The "Vukoje" winery is the leading wine business in Eastern Herzegovina, with 100-120, 000 litres produced per year. Its wines are sold in all the countries of ex-Yugoslavia and also in The Netherlands, Austria and Germany. They have received many prizes, especially thanks to the work of Radovan Vukoje, who has been able to renew remaining faithful to tradition.
The Monastery of Tvrdoš
In the monastery of Tvrdoš, along the banks of the Trebišnjica, for centuries the monks have been producing the wine necessary for their existence. A few years ago the winery decided to increase production for the market as well.
Trebinje market
Wine, naturally falls into a context made up of a wider agricultural and food culture. Just by taking a stroll through Trebinje market you may discover a world made up of sausages, cheeses, vegetables and smells.
Saint Trifun
A vigil over the grape harvest and wine production is kept by Sveti Trifun, the patron saint of the wine makers, traditionally celebrated 14th February.
Popovo Polje
On the Popovo Polje plain, West of Trebinje. Here each little village, often just a handful of houses too meagre to find a place on the map, has its vineyards it looks after jealously.
The Poljak bean
Among biodiversity's treasures in the Trebinje region there is not only wine. There is also the Poljak bean, a dwarf variety, lined and of different colours. Once widespread throughout the Balkans, now nearly disappeared.
Trebinje, history and lunar landscapes
A view of Trebinje, immersed in the moonscapes of Eastern Herzegovina. Over the Trebišnjica river the elegant shape of the Arslanagić bridge, heritage of the Ottoman times.Photos: Ivo DanchevTexts: Francesco MartinoTranslations: Kaela Venuto